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Start by bringing the doe to the bucks
cage. If she is ready to bred the buck will mount her from behind and the
doe will lift her tail. If the buck falls over and grunts, you have a
successful breeding. Try getting this to happen a couple more times to be
sure she is bred but remember it only takes one time. Mark the calendar
and gestation is usually in 31 days. She could be a day or early or late
so keep that in mind. You may want to put the doe back in with the buck
for a test on her 10th to 14th day, to see if she is bred. If she make
growling noises it usually means she is bred, take her out promptly and
put her back in her own cage. |
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Three days before she is
due to deliver, place a nest box inside the cage and give her a large
amount of hay, enough to fill the nestbox and a little extra for eating.
She will know exactly what to do with it and soon you will see her hopping
in the nestbox with large mouthfuls of hay. In the winter months, after
she is done making the nest I take the nestbox out when she is done and
add thickness of newspaper by measuring a full newspaper side to side,
then tearing straight down starting at the fold. I pull the hay nest out
she made and slide the piece of newspaper inside the nestbox bottom then
add about two inches of clean pine shavings, then add the nest back the
doe made.
If you put the newspaper and the shavings in before the doe makes the nest
she will tear it to pieces trying to dig a hole to make a nest. The
newspaper gives the nest a nice warm insulation to keep the babies warm.
In the summer I use 1/2 by 1/2 inch mesh wire on the nest boxes with just
hay and omit the shavings and newspaper. ALSO in the summer during the
very hot months, when the doe is done kindling, I pull out 75% of the fur
since it makes them too warm. I prefer use soft hay not straw.
At ten days, I take all the fur out and add clean hay so it is nice and
clean when their eyes open. In the winter months you may want to leave a
bit of the cleaner fur. They also start to nibble on the hay around that
time. |
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Nestbox size is 14'' long by 9'' wide
by 9'' high with a 1/2 x 1/2 mesh bottom. Made with 3/4 inch plywood
scraps! |
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| Right before she gives
birth, she will pull fur from every reachable part of her body and line
her nest with this to provide a soft warm lining for her babies. In rare
cases, a new mother may not do this, in which case the babies would
eventually die of cold if left outside. The doe will usually give birth in
the early morning hours and you may not be able to witness the birth.
After she gives birth, remove the nest box and pull the fur aside so you
can count the babies. Check for any dead babies, remove soiled hay and
uneaten afterbirth and then get a count. If the babies are cold, do not
assume they are dead. Babies can be brought back to life by holding them
next to a warm part of your body or run warm water over their bodies (not
the head!) or gently blow dry on low heat. Do not blow heat directly on
them or you will burn them. If everyone looks OK, place the box back in
the cage. Make sure she has food and water, and leave her alone for a
couple of hours.
Holland Lops being a dwarf breed sometimes have what is called a peanut, a
baby which has inherited a double dwarf gene. This is fatal for the babies
and the die usually in 2 to 3 days. I have seen some make it to 3 to 6
weeks and heard of one living to 7 months but their lives are always short
lived.
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A three week old Holland Lop peanut |
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| These babies are usually
about half the size of normal babies. You can tell it is a peanut from a
normal baby by looking at its body size and shape. Peanuts have a bulge or
bump on their head. Their hips and backside are under developed and their
rear legs cross. |
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3 day old baby bunnies |
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| Nursing will not take place
until about 8 hours after birth. This is something the doe also does in
the early morning hours and then some does nurse again later in the
evening. Not all does feed twice a day. Check the nest each day. Healthy,
well fed babies should have full round little bellies, and if held on
their backs you can sometimes see a yellow translucent patch on the belly,
which is a tummy full of milk. |
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A well fed baby bunny |
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| If the bellies are sunken
and the skin over them is loose and wrinkly, the babies aren't nursing and
will die within a couple of days if they get too weak to nurse. Newborn
babies decline very rapidly because does nurse their young only once or
twice a day. Sometime new mothers don't know what to do and you will have
to hold them is the nest box the first few times. Be careful you don't let
the doe rest her foot of any of the babies. It usually takes about 5
minutes to let them nurse and once the doe starts to produce milk she will
need to have it nursed off of her and start jumping into the nest box on
her own. What to do if you think you have...Orphaned
Baby Bunnies. |
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Development of the babies... |
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| First Week: Bunnies are
born blind, deaf, and completely naked. Lying together in the warm nest
will help them to keep each other warm. If you have a litter where only a
single baby is born, it is advisable to foster one or two others from
another litter to the mother, or the single baby could end up splay legged
due to over eating. |
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| Seventh to eleventh day:
During this time (10 days) the baby bunny opens its eyes and a soft downy
fur will begin to cover their body. This fur will be a clearer indication
of what color and markings your litter will have. Because the mothers milk
is so rich and nutritious, the babies grow amazingly fast, doubling their
birth weight within a week. |
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1 week old baby bunnies |
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| Second Week: Depending on
their rate of development, the baby rabbits now begin to clamber out of
the nest. Their fur has already become impressively thick and fluffy. At
this age, they have full vision and hearing and will scurry back to the
safety of the nest box should they get frightened. They will also begin to
nibble on hay now. |
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| Third week: The ventures
outside the nest become more frequent. The young rabbits are already
learning to stand on their hind legs without falling over and will test
all four legs by suddenly darting around the cage. They make their first
attempts at grooming themselves and will usually lose their balance and
topple over in doing so. |
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awwww |
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| Fourth Week: Now the young
keep following their mother trying again and again to nurse. She knows to
wean them now and will hop away to try and discourage them. By now, the
babies are eating rabbit pellets, loose hay and nibbling on oats. They
practice hoping and running and watching them play provides great
entertainment. This exercise will help strengthen heart, lungs and
muscles. |
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| Fifth to Seventh Week: The
young rabbits are almost completely weaned and adjusted to solid food even
though they may still chase their mother. At 8 weeks, pets are big enough
to go to a new home and will make happy, loving friends. Holland Lop
bunnies take some time dropping their ears so be patient. Some have a good
amount of ear control depending on well their crown develops and how
correct it is. |
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5 week old baby bunnies |
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6 weeks |
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Visit this site, DebMark Rabbit
Education Resource to learn about sexing your bunny: |
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Sexing Rabbits |
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JOIN THE HOLLAND LOP CLUB TODAY click here:
HLRSC |
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You get a excellent information book on the
Holland Lop, a quarterly publication of the Hollander!! WOW! |
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Please visit: |
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Information found on this page are the
opinion of the owner of this site. They are compiled from various sources
during research and readings. They are offered for use by those who may
find them interesting or useful. |